Tradition loves a bad landowner more than those thousands of humdrum, half decent property owners who held sway over the land for centuries, or even those one or two lairds who were active benefactors for those whose lives they controlled. But some 'bad lairds' have - regrettably and unjustly - fallen off the edge of public consciousness even at a local level, in places where they were rightly reviled and despised, which seems a bit of a shame.
In an effort to redress this shocking historical injustice, I will endeavour to shine a light from time to time on odd characters whose downright nastiness merits a lasting memorial. Heaven forfend that I or anyone else should attempt to rehabilitate these nasties. I will let the facts speak for themselves, as far as they are known. First up is the 16th century landed hooligan who bullied and terrorised the area east of Dundee for twenty solid years. Step up, if you will, Henry Lovell of Ballumbie Castle. The family had migrated from Hawick to Angus at an early date and traditionally provided Dundee with baillies and councillors, but this Lovell was a notorious bad seed. Despite his notoriety, or possibly before his wickedness got into full swing, he was knighted and incorporated into the Guildry of Dundee on 20th June 1559. He was so feared locally that Claypotts Castle was built as a defence against his violence. One of his first recorded victims was James Durham of nearby Pitkerro House, a douce man who professed to be 'ane sober and poor gentleman'. Durham complained to the authorities that Lovell and his men frequently came to his house with the purpose of murdering him. On the 23rd April, 1566, Ballumbie and eighteen henchmen came to Pitkerro House. James Durham, luckily for him, was absent, but Lovell 'boisit' (threatened) his wife, then went into the barn and wounded a servant in the head with his sword. Another servant had a staff broken over him. Durham reported that he was scared to return to his house and said that Lovell had been swaggering about Dundee, boasting about persecuting him. Lovell was apparently already well feared and notorious: what he had 'done to sindry utheris of the countre [was] notorslie knawin'.
Another complainant was Lovell's own son John, who had often suffered from 'unnatural wrangs and injuries' committed by his father. In fact his grandfather Andrew Lovell had dispossessed Henry in favour of John. Henry had frequently burnt John's growing corn, and in 1567 he injured his son's tenants and drove them off the land. Lovell senior was summoned before the Privy Council, but he absconded from Edinburgh before his appearance.
Ballumbie's most sustained raids were against the kirk lands of Monifieth, between 1565 and 1569. The minister, Gilbert Gordin (or Gardin), said that on one occasion Lovell arrived with thirty men and expelled the tenants from the manse and the glebe. He also knocked down houses, cut down trees and stole monies due to the kirk. The Regent Moray heard complaints against the man when he came to Dundee in July 1569, and appointed the Laird of Dun to deal with Lovell. But Dun reported that Lovell refused to leave Monifieth manse and let the minister return. Two Dundonians also claimed protection from Lovell, and John Lovell was bound under the penalty of 2000 merks to keep his father within the law. The wicked Lovell, however, carried on regardless. In 1572 he stole four oxen belonging to one Thomas Schippert. He was ordered again not to molest his son John and at the same time John, who had evidently lost all patience with him, was ordered not to attack his father. The laird was 'was denunceit rebell and thairfor put in ward'.
The last record of the wayward laird was in 1575, when Lovell - now designated as Auld Ballumbie - harried the village of West Ferry. Four houses were demolished, a woman named Helen Buchan was forcibly evicted, and harry knight was threatened with a sword. The Lords Council adjourned the case to gather more evidence, but there is no further mention of wicked Henry Lovell in historical records. The crumbling remains of the castle remain, though it quickly passed from the Lovell kindred to the Lyons of Aldbar, and later the Maule-Ramsays of Panmure.
Monday, 15 June 2015
Saturday, 6 June 2015
Place Rivalries (Part Three) -Forfar v Kirrie; Dundee v Arbroath
Following earlier posts about places in Angus which had an (un?)healthy dislike of each other [see post on 22nd December, 2014], it seems there is more water in the well of inter-community mutual suspicion. Perhaps it was a citizen of Forfar who said the following about neighbouring Kirriemuir:
Faare are ye gaen? To Killiemuir!
Faare never ane weel fure [fared]
But for his ain penny-fee [wages].
Forfar folk in the past had many names tagged onto them, from the harmless - the Loons - to the baffling - Deevil Burn Me. Forfarians were also called the Spooters, from the 'spoot' of Forfar Loch.
One slander nicknamed the county town Brosie Forfar, from the excessive eating and drinking of its inhabitants. The large number of lawyers once found in the burgh were collectively called the Drunken Writers of Forfar. When the townsfolk, in the early 19th century, decided to drain their loch, a meeting was called to decide how to proceed. When it was argued that normal means of drainage would be too expensive, the landowner, Lord Strathmore, suggested that they throw a couple of hogsheads into the loch and let the Drunken Writers sup up the water along with the whisky. Thankfully, neither this ingenious scheme nor any other was attempted and Forfar Loch is still there.
Faare are ye gaen? To Killiemuir!
Faare never ane weel fure [fared]
But for his ain penny-fee [wages].
Forfar folk in the past had many names tagged onto them, from the harmless - the Loons - to the baffling - Deevil Burn Me. Forfarians were also called the Spooters, from the 'spoot' of Forfar Loch.
One slander nicknamed the county town Brosie Forfar, from the excessive eating and drinking of its inhabitants. The large number of lawyers once found in the burgh were collectively called the Drunken Writers of Forfar. When the townsfolk, in the early 19th century, decided to drain their loch, a meeting was called to decide how to proceed. When it was argued that normal means of drainage would be too expensive, the landowner, Lord Strathmore, suggested that they throw a couple of hogsheads into the loch and let the Drunken Writers sup up the water along with the whisky. Thankfully, neither this ingenious scheme nor any other was attempted and Forfar Loch is still there.
An old, forgotten proverb runs: 'Do as the cow of Forfar did, tak a standing drink.' The standing drink, more commonly called the deoch an dorus, was drunk by guests just before leaving. The saying's origin goes back to a dispute involving a cow and a tub of ale.
A Forfar woman had just brewed a large quantity of ale, which she put into her back garden to cool off. When she went out to check it, she found the tub empty and her neighbour's cow staggering and staring strangely. Outraged, she started beating it with a stick. When the cow's owner heard it bellowing, he rushed out and demanded that she stop assaulting the animal, but the woman refused and said she wanted compensation for her beer. The man refused, so the ale wife sued him in court. The baillie who heard the evidence asked whether the cow had been standing up or sitting down when it drank the ale. The woman said that she hadn't seen, but assumed that the cow had been standing up. Hearing this, the baillie said that there was no case to answer: the cow had merely partaken of the standing drink, the ancient custom of hospitality in Scotland. With legal cases like that, it is no wonder that Forfar took to drink.
Rivalry between Forfar and Montrose came to a head when the minister of the latter town defected and went to Forfar. The Rev. Skinner was just settling into his new kirk when he heard that the Montrose folk were saying that he had been seduced by a better wage and a supply of pork fat. He wrote an angry letter to Montrose kirk and showed it to his grandfather (another minister), who composed a more pithy riposte:
Had Skinner been of carnal mind,
as strangely you suppose,
or had he even been fond of swine,
he'd ne'er have left Montrose.
Perhaps the kindest rhyme concerning Forfar is an observation about the local speech patterns, now perhaps extinct:
By fu, and fat, and far and fan,
ye can tell a Forfar man.
In the middle of the 17th century two Forfar men exiled in Stockholm sent back to Forfar a magnificent bell for the kirk. Sadly, when it was unloaded at Dundee docks, the bell was seized by town officials. A fight ensued, during which the bell's clapper was torn out and tossed into the River Tay. Eventually the bell was allowed to go to Forfar, but only after Forfar agreed to a bizarre deal: the Forfarians were forced to buy all the land they travelled over between Dundee and Forfar. And that was how a road in Dundee became known as the Forfar Loan. The bells of Forfar are said to be the oldest in the county. Three of them were donated by the Stockholm merchants, William and Robert Strang, sons of a former Provost of Forfar, in 1657.
Dundee's authorities frequently clashed with competitors upriver and along the coast, like Perth, Montrose and Arbroath. Perth and Dundee had been at each other's throats from early times, fighting over which had the right to cargoes entering the Tay and which was the second most important burgh in the realm. Robert Birrell tells us in his diary that the matter of precedence was discussed in parliament in 1567:
the tounes of Dundie and Perth strave for 2d place amongst the burrowes, vich wes like to make a very grate dale of busines, had not the fame beine mediat for ye present by some descreitt men, quho dealt in the meatter...ye Lord Regent raid to ye Parliament hous, and ves much troubled to compose these tuo turbulent tounes of Perth and Dundie.
The dispute raged for centuries, sometimes with civic dignitaries brawling in the streets. In 1601, a messenger from Perth was met with insults and snowballs in Dundee, prompting Perth to complain to parliament.
Montrose traders were in trouble as early as 1289, when Aberdeen and the Moray burghs moaned that Montrose had interfered with Aberdeen's fair every year and severely dented their profits. Montrose later tried to muscle in on Dundee's trade, but in 1584 an arbiter to parliament fixed the southern limit of the town's trading precinct at the Dichty Burn.
One of the best known stories of inter-town rivalry tells how Arbroath folk became known as Red Lichties. When red stained glass was introduced for coastal safety lights, Dundee was the first to put a red light on its pier. This safety measure won the admiration of sailors and made Dundonians boast about its cost. News of this innovation infuriated Arbroath Council. The Provost himself was sent to spy of the light belonging to the Tay Water Willies of Dundee, as they were known. The red glass baffled him, but he was determined to give Arbroath its own red light. Back in Arbroath, the whole council assembled at the breakwater. The town painter was instructed to give the existing white light a coat of paint and Sandie Swankie, the boatman, was obliged to go out to sea and report how the new red light appeared. After one coat of red paint was applied the Provost called to the boatman, 'Fat div ye see?' And Sandie shouted back, 'I see a reed lichtie, sir.'
The Provost was so carried away that he turned to the painter and said, 'Od, man, gie't anither coat an we'll lick the Dundee folk yet.'
But Tam the painter applied so much paint this time that the light was totally obliterated. Sandie nearly drowned in the darkness, trying to get back to shore, and the councillors grazed their shins and bumped their noses along the dark breakwater. The name Red Lichties has been used ever since. Some in Arbroath maintain that the name actually comes from a red light hung up in Arbroath Abbey as a warning to shipping, but this is merely a whitewash of true events.
Saturday, 30 May 2015
The Natural Mysteries of the Land
When the Scots took over Angus from the Picts in the ninth century they found a province filled with strange things which could not easily be explained. The anonymous Irish scribe who compiled his version of the Historia Brittonum enumerated the wonders of the land, and among them was Glen Ailbe in Angus, where a mysterious shouting was heard resounding in the hills every Monday night. Nobody knew what made the noise, but it could only have been the fairy people who lived in the mountains and fields. That terrifying sound may have long ago ceased to resonate, but another place where strange sounds are still sometimes heard is Lunan Bay, one of a number of British beaches where the sand is supposed to 'sing' on occasion. Whether this has a plausible geological cause is yet to be determined. But even silence can sometime be sinister and there are certain place which have - and may always have had - a bad reputation for reasons forgotten or never known. The mountain named Mayer, which rears above Glen Doll, is a frequent target for hill walkers because of its immensity. But some people have reported feeling very uncomfortable there. One woman walker stated that nothing would ever compel her to walk alone on that mountain.
Place-names showing the presence of the Fair Folk are as elusive as the race itself. True, there is an Elf Hillock in Glen Clova, but it is a very modest mound. One gets the feeling that most of the supernatural traffic in ancient times by-passed Angus altogether. The first major north-south glen to the west of the county is Glen Shee, the glen of the fairies. People in Strathmore used to believe that fairy men sometimes abducted human babies and conducted them to their caverns beneath the Sidlaw Hills. One theory says that the first element in the name Sidlaw is sidh, 'fairy', but more prosaic souls may prefer to believe that the element stands for 'seat' (the second part of the name is the Old English law, 'hill').
Supernatural beings, fairies and other, infested the conspicuous hills until recent times. Perhaps the most impressive otherworldly hills are the White and Brown Caterthuns, north of Brechin, each crowned with a massive native hill fort. The stronghold on the Brown Caterthun was the successor of that on the White Caterthun, and was likely constructed after Agricola's Roman legions withdrew in the first century. Locals believed that a witch carried the stones used to build the Caterthuns. But her apron string broke as she flew through the air and one stone landed in a field, becoming a standing stone. People in Menmuir parish said that the fairies inhabited a huge cave under the Caterthuns. Early in the 19th century a couple from Tigerton had a baby which sadly began to waste away. Gossips at first insisted that the mother had bewitched her child, then other wisdom prevailed. It became obvious that the afflicted bairn was a changeling; the mortal boy having been stolen by the Caterthun fairies. To test whether the child was in fact fairy or human, he was held over a whin fire. If he had been of fairy stock he would have flown at once to his native realm under the hills. But the baby merely screamed as he received a slight burn, proving his mortality.
A well on the west side of the White Caterthun was rumoured to contain a kettle filled with (fairy?) gold. Another kettle, brim full of silver, lay somewhere on the Hill of Wirran, to the north. This latter treasure has been fleetingly glimpsed from a distance, but nobody has found it yet. The eventual finder may be unluckier than he or she reckons, for they will be magically transported to another dimension and be forced to toil until Doomsday. At the end of the world the person will be consigned to eternal lamentation. Cairns near the top of the Hill of Wirran mark the graves of suicides, buried here so their spirits would not haunt the habitations of humans. The last unfortunates to be buried here were a man and a woman, who died between 1760 and 1780.
Another hill with an eerie reputation was Turin Hill, near Forfar. Turin's fortified summit encampment enclosed a massive seven and a half acres. It features in an old Angus curse:
Deil ride to Turin on ye
for a lade o sclates!
Here, Satan was credited with carrying the materials for the ancient fort.
Another witch, who was flying over Carmyllie, carelessly dropped her burden. This was the famous Cauld Stane o Carmyllie, which marks the boundary between the parishes of Carmyllie and Rescobie. Also known as the Girdle Stane, it may be the 'Grey Stone' mentioned in records about 1280. Its odd name comes from the fact that it sued to revolve three times every morning at cock crow to welcome the heat of the rising sun. A folklorist might be tempted to conjecture that this is a distorted memory of a time when people once danced around the stone in a pagan rite.
Carmyllie, like the Caterthuns, was a notorious hot spot for weird traditions. An ill remembered tale speaks of a castle which entirely sank into the ground. Carmyllie Hill had its own crock of gold, sometimes seen but never grasped. In 1838, a 'fairy hillock' was excavated on the hill. A huge, two ton boulder was unearthed, along with some metal rings. The under side of the stone had an imprint on it shaped like a foot mark, which locals took as conclusive proof that the Good Folk revelled nightly on the hill. Since then, many 'foot prints' have been found in quarries north of the hill and seem, sadly, entirely natural formations.
Other ancient remains were also treated with supestitious dread. A shot cist grave was accidentally uncovered by peat cutters at Arsallary in Glen Esk. They quickly repaired it, for they knew they would never cut another peat if the grave was desecrated. Souterrains - also called earth houses or weems - were stone lines underground passages built by the Picts in the early centuries A.D. They may have been used as storehouses, or as places of refuge, but they were later abandoned. The Gaelic newcomers to the county linked them with the otherworld. Many of the fifty or so souterrains in Angus are clustered at a number of sites. Airlie has traces of seven of them, six of them around Barns of Airlie. Once there was a croft at Barns which was terribly plagued by fairies. Every morning the housewife found that the ashes from the fire had vanished during the night. One day, as she was making oatcakes on the grate, one of them fell into the fire. The cake did not burn, it disappeared. The terrified woman ran out of the house and told her neighbours. They quickly tore down the haunted cottage and found that the hearthstone was actually the roofing slab of a souterrain. Lifting up this slab, they found below an enormous pile of shes and a number of mouldy oatcakes - but no fairies.
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| Lunan Bay and Red Castle |
Place-names showing the presence of the Fair Folk are as elusive as the race itself. True, there is an Elf Hillock in Glen Clova, but it is a very modest mound. One gets the feeling that most of the supernatural traffic in ancient times by-passed Angus altogether. The first major north-south glen to the west of the county is Glen Shee, the glen of the fairies. People in Strathmore used to believe that fairy men sometimes abducted human babies and conducted them to their caverns beneath the Sidlaw Hills. One theory says that the first element in the name Sidlaw is sidh, 'fairy', but more prosaic souls may prefer to believe that the element stands for 'seat' (the second part of the name is the Old English law, 'hill').
Supernatural beings, fairies and other, infested the conspicuous hills until recent times. Perhaps the most impressive otherworldly hills are the White and Brown Caterthuns, north of Brechin, each crowned with a massive native hill fort. The stronghold on the Brown Caterthun was the successor of that on the White Caterthun, and was likely constructed after Agricola's Roman legions withdrew in the first century. Locals believed that a witch carried the stones used to build the Caterthuns. But her apron string broke as she flew through the air and one stone landed in a field, becoming a standing stone. People in Menmuir parish said that the fairies inhabited a huge cave under the Caterthuns. Early in the 19th century a couple from Tigerton had a baby which sadly began to waste away. Gossips at first insisted that the mother had bewitched her child, then other wisdom prevailed. It became obvious that the afflicted bairn was a changeling; the mortal boy having been stolen by the Caterthun fairies. To test whether the child was in fact fairy or human, he was held over a whin fire. If he had been of fairy stock he would have flown at once to his native realm under the hills. But the baby merely screamed as he received a slight burn, proving his mortality.
A well on the west side of the White Caterthun was rumoured to contain a kettle filled with (fairy?) gold. Another kettle, brim full of silver, lay somewhere on the Hill of Wirran, to the north. This latter treasure has been fleetingly glimpsed from a distance, but nobody has found it yet. The eventual finder may be unluckier than he or she reckons, for they will be magically transported to another dimension and be forced to toil until Doomsday. At the end of the world the person will be consigned to eternal lamentation. Cairns near the top of the Hill of Wirran mark the graves of suicides, buried here so their spirits would not haunt the habitations of humans. The last unfortunates to be buried here were a man and a woman, who died between 1760 and 1780.
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| The White Caterthun |
Another hill with an eerie reputation was Turin Hill, near Forfar. Turin's fortified summit encampment enclosed a massive seven and a half acres. It features in an old Angus curse:
Deil ride to Turin on ye
for a lade o sclates!
Here, Satan was credited with carrying the materials for the ancient fort.
Another witch, who was flying over Carmyllie, carelessly dropped her burden. This was the famous Cauld Stane o Carmyllie, which marks the boundary between the parishes of Carmyllie and Rescobie. Also known as the Girdle Stane, it may be the 'Grey Stone' mentioned in records about 1280. Its odd name comes from the fact that it sued to revolve three times every morning at cock crow to welcome the heat of the rising sun. A folklorist might be tempted to conjecture that this is a distorted memory of a time when people once danced around the stone in a pagan rite.
Carmyllie, like the Caterthuns, was a notorious hot spot for weird traditions. An ill remembered tale speaks of a castle which entirely sank into the ground. Carmyllie Hill had its own crock of gold, sometimes seen but never grasped. In 1838, a 'fairy hillock' was excavated on the hill. A huge, two ton boulder was unearthed, along with some metal rings. The under side of the stone had an imprint on it shaped like a foot mark, which locals took as conclusive proof that the Good Folk revelled nightly on the hill. Since then, many 'foot prints' have been found in quarries north of the hill and seem, sadly, entirely natural formations.
Other ancient remains were also treated with supestitious dread. A shot cist grave was accidentally uncovered by peat cutters at Arsallary in Glen Esk. They quickly repaired it, for they knew they would never cut another peat if the grave was desecrated. Souterrains - also called earth houses or weems - were stone lines underground passages built by the Picts in the early centuries A.D. They may have been used as storehouses, or as places of refuge, but they were later abandoned. The Gaelic newcomers to the county linked them with the otherworld. Many of the fifty or so souterrains in Angus are clustered at a number of sites. Airlie has traces of seven of them, six of them around Barns of Airlie. Once there was a croft at Barns which was terribly plagued by fairies. Every morning the housewife found that the ashes from the fire had vanished during the night. One day, as she was making oatcakes on the grate, one of them fell into the fire. The cake did not burn, it disappeared. The terrified woman ran out of the house and told her neighbours. They quickly tore down the haunted cottage and found that the hearthstone was actually the roofing slab of a souterrain. Lifting up this slab, they found below an enormous pile of shes and a number of mouldy oatcakes - but no fairies.
Sunday, 24 May 2015
The Last Wolf and Wildcats
Some time in the late 17th century, the last wolf in Angus stravaiged through Glen Lethnot, devouring many sheep there. One evening a servant girl was sent by her master to sift a melder of corn at Glascarry Mill. The task was so exhausting that, on her return journey, she lay down on a grassy bank and fell fast asleep. Next morning she woke to find a huge, shaggy wolf sleeping beside her. Worse still, it lay on a fold of her clothing, preventing her from getting up. But she carefully managed to extricate herself, leaving her dress behind, and ran to raise the warning at the nearest farmhouse. A crowd accompanied her back to where the wold had been, but all they found was the abandoned dress, ripped to shreds. The party scoured the glen and finally located the wolf on the Hill of Wirren. There was a fierce struggle and the beast was eventually slain by one Robert of Nathro, who later married the young maid.
Places-names in upland Angus show there was once a sizeable wolf population in the wild places. There is a hill named Wolf Craig in Glen Lee and a Wolf Hill near Loch Brandy, and there is also a burn called Wolf Grain. Meanwhile the deserted fishing village of Usan, south of Montrose, was called Wolfishavyn in 1512 and Howlshavin in 1496.
While wolves may have gone, that other ferocious - if sadly endangered - creature the Wild Cat -still clings on in the remote nooks and corries of upland Angus. I had a strange encounter with these animals while camping out in a bivvy bag one summer night twenty odd years ago. Sleeping on a high saddle of land between two hills above Glen Prosen, I was woken by a strange sound which sounded like a cross between a steam powered machine and a highly displeased animal. More disconcertingly, the sound seemed to circle me in the darkness, coming nearer and nearer. That was the end of sleep for that night. When dawn starting inching upwards, I eventually saw two crouching beasts in the middle distance and recognised them as Wild Cats, who seemed to be watching me intently, wondering what I was doing in the middle of their territory. I had a disposable camera with me and took a flash picture of the pair. The animal furthest behind ran off immediately, but the other one waited a menacing thirty seconds before it bounded away after the other, down an impossibly steep slope. Sadly, I lost the camera before I had the chance to develop the picture.
In 1817 a deer-stalker named Charles Duncan was travelling through Glen Doll when he spotted a Wild Cat and decided to shoot it. As he crept closer, he lost his footing and his prey sprang away. Dazed, Duncan looked up and was astonished to see that his surroundings had utterly changed. Instead of an expanse of heather, he found himself in an overgrown kirkyard. He was even more surprised to see an open coffin lying on the ground. It contained a corpse which the stalker recognised as an older version of himself. An inscription on the adjacent coffin lid stated his name, age and date of his death: 21st September, 1848, aged eighty-three. The horrified Duncan swiftly ran away and afterwards avoided the place. It hardly needs to be added that Charles Duncan died on the very day which his vision decreed.
Places-names in upland Angus show there was once a sizeable wolf population in the wild places. There is a hill named Wolf Craig in Glen Lee and a Wolf Hill near Loch Brandy, and there is also a burn called Wolf Grain. Meanwhile the deserted fishing village of Usan, south of Montrose, was called Wolfishavyn in 1512 and Howlshavin in 1496.
While wolves may have gone, that other ferocious - if sadly endangered - creature the Wild Cat -still clings on in the remote nooks and corries of upland Angus. I had a strange encounter with these animals while camping out in a bivvy bag one summer night twenty odd years ago. Sleeping on a high saddle of land between two hills above Glen Prosen, I was woken by a strange sound which sounded like a cross between a steam powered machine and a highly displeased animal. More disconcertingly, the sound seemed to circle me in the darkness, coming nearer and nearer. That was the end of sleep for that night. When dawn starting inching upwards, I eventually saw two crouching beasts in the middle distance and recognised them as Wild Cats, who seemed to be watching me intently, wondering what I was doing in the middle of their territory. I had a disposable camera with me and took a flash picture of the pair. The animal furthest behind ran off immediately, but the other one waited a menacing thirty seconds before it bounded away after the other, down an impossibly steep slope. Sadly, I lost the camera before I had the chance to develop the picture.
In 1817 a deer-stalker named Charles Duncan was travelling through Glen Doll when he spotted a Wild Cat and decided to shoot it. As he crept closer, he lost his footing and his prey sprang away. Dazed, Duncan looked up and was astonished to see that his surroundings had utterly changed. Instead of an expanse of heather, he found himself in an overgrown kirkyard. He was even more surprised to see an open coffin lying on the ground. It contained a corpse which the stalker recognised as an older version of himself. An inscription on the adjacent coffin lid stated his name, age and date of his death: 21st September, 1848, aged eighty-three. The horrified Duncan swiftly ran away and afterwards avoided the place. It hardly needs to be added that Charles Duncan died on the very day which his vision decreed.
Saturday, 16 May 2015
The Angus Cannibal
The chink in the Sidlaws known as the Glack of
Newtyle is the main route from Dundee to western Strathmore and it was haunted
for centuries by robbers and brigands. The
most terrifying of these outlaws lived in the early 15th century and his story
was re-told (or quite possibly invented) by James Grant in his novel The Yellow Frigate (1855). Grant
told the story of a strange creature named Ewain Gavelrigg who lived in
a turf-walled cottage at Uach-dar Tir,
now Auchtertire, west of Newtyle. Ewain
was more monster than man, for his occupation was to waylay solitary travellers
in the Glack, kill them, then drink their blood and consume their flesh. The few men who escaped and found refuge in
the castles of Baille Craig or Dudhope in Dundee said that their attacker was a
huge man with a great mace. He was dressed in homespun grey, his head was
covered by a forest of hair, and he could brain a mountain bull with a single
blow.
The
country became so alarmed that none would dare cross the Sidlaws except as part
of a large armed party. Two men, on
separate occasions, swore that they had slain the ogre. A Dundonian arrow maker said he had slit its
throat, and a Banff sword maker said he had stabbed it in the chest. But the attacks continued, so the two men
were dismissed as liars. The situation
became so serious that Sir James Scrymgeour of Dudhope, constable of Dundee,
declared that he would deal with it personally.
On the evening of the feat of St John the Evangalist, 1440, he donned
his armour and set out with Sir John Drummond.When they reached the Glack, the Constable blew his horn and shouted, ‘Ewain Gavelrigg - man or fiend - come out!’ The ogre appeared on the path before them and smashed Scrymgeour’s horse with his mace, dashing its brains into his face. As the Constable fell, Ewain laughed happily and dragged him by the throat into the thick pine woods.
Drummond
had been behind Scymgeour and had not been spotted by the fiend. He followed quietly to a clearing where
Gavelrigg was about to kill the Constable.
Sir John galloped at the monster and transfixed him with his lance. Ewain expired with a horrible piercing cry
just as dawn arrived. The two men
carefully examined the body and found the wounds which the arrow maker and the
sword maker had afflicted. Soon two wild
looking women approached, the wife and daughter of Gavelrigg, and asked to take
him away for burial. Scrygeour assented,
but first he hacked off the hand which had grabbed his throat and later he nailed
it to the West Port of Dundee as a warning to miscreants.
The
north-west road was considered safe again, but soon more travellers went
missing. Large pools of blood were seen
in the Glack. Ewain Gavelrigg had
apparently returned from the dead. King James I’s governor, Sir Alexander
Livingstone of Callendar, proclaimed a crusade against the fiend. The hut at Auchtertyre was demolished, and a
huge amount of human remains was found in a vault. A patrol tracked Ewain to a narrow valley
where he slew eight men and three horses before he was captured, bound beneath
a horse’s belly, and transported to Dundee.
Ewain Gavelrigg, his wife, daughter, and infant son were burned to death
at the Market Cross. In the novel the
tale is remembered by the evil Hew Borthwick, supposedly saved from the flames
by a priest.Grant based his story on an intriguing passage from Robert Lindsay of Pitscottie’s Historie and Cronikles of Scotland (c. 1578):
Thair was and briggant tane with his hail familie, quho
hauntet ane place in Angus. This michievous man had an
execrable faschion to tak all young men, and children aither,
he could steal away quietlie, or tak away without knawledge,
and eat thame, and they younger they war, esteemed them
more tender and delicious. For the quhilk caus and
dampnable abuse, he, with his wayff and bairnis, were all
burnt, except ane young wench of ane year old, wha was
saiffed , and broucht to Dundie, quhair show was broucht vp and
fostered, and quhan shoe cam to ane vomanes yeires, shoe cam
to ane vomanes yeires, shoe was condemned and burnt quick
for that cryme. It is said, that when shoe was coming to the place
of execution, their gathered and hudge multitud of people, and
speciallie of vomen, cursing her that shoe was so unhappie to
commit so damnable didis. To whom she turned about with ane
ireful countenance, saying, Quhairfoir chyd yea me so as if I had
committed an vnworthie act? Give me credence and trow me, if
yea had experience of eating men and vomenis flesch, ye wold think
it so delitious that ye wold nevir forbeare it againe. So, bot ony sign
of repentance, this vnhappie traitour died in the sight of the people.
The legend
seems obviously similar to the better know Ayrshire cannibal clan of Sawney
Bean, though in fact Pitscottie’s tale was set down long before the abominable
Bean made it into print. Pitscottie does
not mention the setting as being in the west Sidlaws. Popular tradition placed the cannibal at
Denfind, Monikie, several miles to the east, popularly called Fiend’s Den, which obviously appears to
be a folk etymology. Syrymgeour did have
a known connection to the Glack of Newtyle, having killed the Laird of
Fetterangus here in revenge for raiding his lands.
Tuesday, 5 May 2015
The Ogilvy-Lindsay Feud. Beardie!
One of the most famous ghosts of Glamis Castle does not
belong there at all, though he was a famous character in Angus and beyond
during his lifetime in the 15th century.
Earl Beardie (nicknamed after his beard) was also known as the Tiger
Earl (because of his ferocity), and his given name was Alexander Lindsay, the
4th Earl of Crawford. He was chief of
the house of the ‘lichtsome Lindsays’, who were one of the most powerful kin
groups in Angus, until their decline in the 17th century. The chief opponents of the Lindsays were the
Ogilvy family and the feud between the two kindreds rumbled on for over a
century.
One tale dates the
rivalry to the early 14th century, when Lindsay of Finavon Castle invited local
lairds to compete in an archery competition.
Twenty-four competitors lined up on the castle lawn, watched by their
ladies sitting beneath the shade of a chestnut tree. After many feats of skill, David Ogilvy,
squire of Lord Ogilvy of Inverquharity Castle,
laded his arrow in a bulls-eye already hit by Lindsay’s man. Lord Ogilvy then shot a falcon on the wing,
an act which Lord Lindsay was too drunk to replicate. The contestants then moved inside the castle. Ogilvy recklessly accused Lindsay of being
jealous of his ability, so Lindsay set a
more difficult challenge. Each man was
to shoot an arrow through the twelve
candle sconces fitted to the wall and hit a falcon held by a servant at the far
end of the hall. Lindsay loosed his
arrow and killed his own henchman.
Ogilvy’s shot struck the bird.
Lindsay furiously challenged Ogilvy to a duel on Kelpie’s Haugh. The combat was long and fierce, but finally
Lindsay gained the advantage. But, just
as he was about to deliver the mortal blow, Lindsay dropped dead.
This story is
probably a literary fiction from the 19th century. The real root of the feud was the wild
temperament and greed of Alexander Lindsay, Master of Crawford, son of David,
the 3rd Earl of Crawford and his wife Marion Ogilvy. Sir Walter Ogilvy of Carcary and Lintrathen
had been granted the lands and castle of Bolshan (in Kinnell parish) by
Arbroath Abbey, around 1422. He was made a baillie of the abbey at the same time.
When this knight died in 1440, the office and possessions passed to Sir
Walter Ogilvie of Airlie. The Master of
Crawford purchased another office from the abbey, becoming Justiciar, but he
was removed from the position after embezzling large sums of money. Sir Alexander Ogilvy, 2nd baron of
Inverquharity, was appointed Justiciar in Lindsay’s place.
The Erle of Crawfourd, being then at Dundee, posted in all
haste to Aberbrothock, and came there just as
both parties
[were] ready to begin the fight...designing by
calmness to
take up the quarrel [he] went too forwardly to demand a
parlie with Alexander Ogilbie for his sons. But before he
could either be known or heard, he was encountered by a
commone soulder, who thrust him in the mouth with a
speir which lair him upon the ground...
After the battle, the Lindsays pursued their enemy to Leys, south of Kinnell, with the Lindsays coming off best, as this old rhyme remembers:
At the Loan o the Leys the play began,an the Lindsays o’er the Ogilvys ran.
One of the Ogilvy troops in this fray was a giant man with the old Angus name of Irons. Despite his strength, Irons was slain and his giant boot and spur were hung up in the Ogilvy aisle of Kinnell church. Above this aisle was written this legend:
While girse grows green and water runs clear,let nane but Ogilvys lie here.
Crawford’s death seems to have driven Marion Ogilvy insane, for she removed the pillow from her husband’s death bed and used it to smother the helpless Sir Alexander Ogilvy. The Lindsays made a gleeful rhyme about the murder, playing on the words Ogilvy and Ugly:
Crawford allied himself with the Douglas family and became a major player in the rebellion against King James II which arose when the king killed the 8th Earl of Douglas. At 11 a.m. on Ascension Day, 18th May, 1452, Crawford’s army met the king’s forces under the Earl of Huntly at the Battle of Brechin. Huntly won the day, helped by a large defection from his enemy, led by one Collace, or Sir John Collessie, of Balnamoon, apparently disenchanted by not receiving a grant of the lands of Fern from Crawford.
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| Ruined remains of Finavon Castle |
After the bitter defeat, Earl Beardie fled back to his home of Finavon Castle , called for a cup of wine, and declared that, rather than having been defeated, ‘he wud be content to hing seven years in hell by the breers o' his e’en [eyelashes].’ Huntly had planned to follow Crawford, but was forced to flee north when the Earl of Moray invaded his own lands. Crawford took the opportunity of his absence to burn down Kinnaird Castle, home of Huntly’s ally, Walter Carnegie.
A legend says Beardie was warned of defeat years before when his wife encountered a strange old minstrel wandering by the Lemno Burn. Hearing mention her husband, she brought him home and the Earl ordered him to speak. When the old man predicted the murder of Douglas the defeat at Brechin, Crawford hanged the minstrel from an iron hook hung high on Finavon’s eastern wall.
King James II was furious with Crawford after the defeat and swore he would make the highest stone of Finavon its lowest. But Crawford courageously approached the monarch and begged mercy for his family and vassals, though none for himself. The king forgave him and Beardie received him, bare foot and in sack cloth, on the Renet Green before Finavon. The king entered the castle, climbed to the keep, and dislodged the highest stone, and so fulfilled his promise. Crawford entertained the king for three days at the castle.
It was long
believed by the Lindsays that they had lost the day at Brechin for the same
reason that the Ogilvys were defeated at Arbroath: their uniform contained that deadly fairy
colour, green. The family later swore:
A
Lindsay in greenshould never be seen.
But, strangely
enough, the Lindsay tartan, as it is known today, does contain green.
A story says that Beardie fled to Spain
after his defeat and battled against the Moors.
He brought back a Spanish chestnut tree which he planted in the
courtyard of Finavon. It was called Earl Beardie’s Tree, or the Covin [Company] Tree, because nobles
gathered beneath it to drink before they
went hunting. The chestnut was the
largest in Scotland and Earl Beardie was fiercely proud of it.
One day a messenger from Lindsay of
Careston stood under the tree while he waited for an answer. Being bored, he cut a walking stick from a
branch of the tree. Crawford had the boy
strung up from the chestnut.
‘The ghost of this luckless person,’ Andrew Jervise wrote in The Land of the Lindsays (2nd edition, 1886), ‘still wanders
between Finhaven and Cariston, and is the constant attendant of benighted
travellers, by some of whom he is described as a lad of about sixteen years of
age, without bonnet or shoes, as is known as Jock Barefoot. His freaks
are curious and withal inofensive, and on reaching a certain burn on the road
he vanishes in a blaze of fire.’
Jock seems originally to have been an
elemental or nature sprite, A rhyme gives him the character of a tree spirit:
Earl Beardie ne’er will dee
nor poor Jock Barefoot be set free,as lang’s there grows a chestnut tree.
Sunday, 3 May 2015
Who exactly is this Angus person anyway?
Unfortunately
there is no definitive answer about who the ‘original’ Angus was, or even if
the area was named after an actual person .
Although the county of Angus went through a period of identity crisis
for several centuries, when it appallingly called itself ‘Forfarshire’, common
sense won through in the end and Angus became Angus again (some time around
1928). Even now, when we are lumbered
with districts instead of bona fide counties, Angus is still Angus, more of
less (don’t get me started on those parishes we have somehow lost to Perthshire
- come back Kettins, all is forgiven!)
But who is Angus actually named after (if
anyone): a person, a tribe, a god? The conservative and accepted theory says
that the region was named after one of those semi-legendary ‘sons’ of the king
of Erc, the Gaelic invader who seized the western seaboard of Scotland. The three sons gave their names to the three
dynastic tribes of the new kingdom. But
the tribe of Angus, whose heartland was Islay, was the least numerous and
therefore least powerful of the kin groups.
What is the chance that they were able to travel east into Pictland and carve out a
territory in one of the most fertile parts of the country? Yet the River Isla, bounding the west of the
county, is possibly cognate with the island Islay, named possibly after a god.
A legend set down in writing in the 12th
century and contained in the geographical tract De Situ Albanie says that the kingdom was ancient divided between
seven brothers, and the principal region was Angus with the Mearns. The story is a variant of an origin legend
found in Ireland which named and explained the original seven Pictish regions
after the sons of a mythical monarch named Cruidne, or Cruithne (meaning
‘Pict’) who reigned for a hundred years. One of the sons was named Circinn, which is understood
to have comprised the later region of Angus and the Mearns. Significantly, as in the legend naming Angus,
this tale confirms the prominence of Circinn.
The latter ‘son’ is marked out by being described as ‘warlike’. So, at least most authorities believe that
Circinn became Angus and Mearns, though it is unclear whether the place-name
Angus existed before the Gaelic take over of Pictland in the 9th century, or
some time later. The first mention of a
region named Angus comes in the death notice of the man who ruled it. In 938 it was noted that the mormaer, or ‘great steward’, of Angus
had died. This ruler, Dubucan son of
Indrechtach had died one year after the Battle of Brunanburgh, a major Scottish
defeat by the English. It might not be
stretching supposition too far to imagine this Dubucan, a ruler or sub king,
succumbed to wounds that he had sustained supporting his king in a national battle
the year before.
Back to the actual name of Angus, and
another possibility is that the place
was named after the Pictish king Angus mac Fergus, the first of two rulers to
have that name. Angus is also styled Onuist
map Urguist (supposedly the
original Pictish form) or Óengus mac Fergusso. Angus is thought to have come to power after
a bloody four-way civil war in the early eighth century and was, as his name
suggests, possibly of Irish descent.
Irish sources speak of a kin-group named the Eoganacht settling in the
plain of Circinn, e.g. Strathmore. After
dealing with his Pictish opponents, Angus (who must have been middle aged by
then) turned his attention to quelling the other nations who inhabited the
space now known as Scotland. In the early
8th century it was far from clear which kingdom would come out of top and
dominate the others. While the
Northumbrian English had been prevented from permanent colonisation of Pictland
after the battle of Nechtansmere in 685, they were still a potent force which
controlled the formerly British Lothian territory. The Irish Dal Riata realm’s fortunes shrunk
and contracted, according to fortune and chance, and the enigmatic British
kingdom centred on Dumbarton rock, stubbornly survived in astonishing fashion
for centuries after its kindred territories in northern England and the borders
fell like ninepins in the early medieval era, in the face of Anglo Saxon aggression.
The bare annalistic records show that Angus was the most aggressive and
successful northern warlord of his era.
Following his quelling of internal opponents, Angus and his kin fought
against the Dal Riata. He forced them to
hand over a leader named Talorcan in 734, and this man was drowned, probably in
a ritual fashion, as was an Irish ruler of Atholl five years later. Angus ruthlessly targeted the Gaelic realm in
Argyll, causing it to totter on the brink of collapse for many years. He then fought against the Strathclyde
Britons, allied at times with the northern English, and when he died (in 761), his
reign was characterised as bloody from beginning to end.
Perhaps some might want to believe that this Angus left his name of the
region of his possible origin. Others
might shudder and prefer to believe the gentler fable that the county really takes
its name from the Gaelic god of love.
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