Thursday, 28 March 2019

Ochterlony's Account of the Shire of Forfar - Part One

   A very long post today, but an interesting.  I can say that without false modesty because the work is not mine, but one of the earliest descriptions of the county of Angus.  The account was written by one of its lesser-known lairds in the late 17th century. John Ouchterlony (or Ochterlony/Auchterlony/Auchterlonie) around 1678. He represented an old family who occupied the house and estate of Guynd at Carmyllie. The family name may come from the lands of Lownie in the parish of Dunnichen, which were in the possession of the family until around 1226-1239. They later occupied various places, including Kelly in Arbirlot, until gaining the estate of the Guynd in 1614. The current mansion was erected by the last of the main line of the family, who died in 1844 (though the family still occupy the place). The family member who wrote the account was served heir of his father, another John, in April 1676, in the lands of Guynd, with the teinds in the Lordship of Arbroath.

  This fascinating document has been printed several times, mostly in the 19th century.  Due to its length I have cut it into segments and will post the next chunk in several weeks' time.



The Guynd.


   THE Shyre of Forfar, so called from the head burgh thereof, is divided in fyve Presbetries, viz. Forfar, Dundie, Migill, Brechine, and Aberbrothock, and hath therein fyve Royal Burghs, viz.
Forfar, Dundie, Brechine, Montross, Aberbrothock ; Burghs of Regalitie two, Kerremuir and Couper ;
divers Burghs of Baronie, as Glammes, Edzielburgh, Easthaven of Panmure, &c. The judicatories thereof are the Sherref Court, whereof the Earls of Southesque are heretable Shirreffs; four Church Regalities, viz. Aberbrothock, Brechine, and Couper, whereof the Earls of Airlie are here-table bailzies; Rescobie, whereof the Earls of Crawfurd are heretable bailzies, the Archbishop
of St Andrews being Lord of the Regalitie, and the whole lands thereof hold of him. Some few some
waird, but the other thrie hold of the King feu, and are all oblidged as a pairt of the reddend of the charters, to give suit and presence at thrie head Courts in the yeir, at their respective burghs above written. Item, one temporall regalitie, Kerremuir, whereof the Marquis of Douglas is Lord of
Erectione, and directs his brieves for inquests out of his own Chancelorie, and hath a depute residing in the Shyre. The whole regalitie hold of him either waird or feu. The Bishop of Brechine hath his Commissariot Court at Brechine, his See, whore are divers other Courts of the King's Barons and Burghs Boyall within ther own bounds.


   The militia of the shyre is one regiment, consisting of one thousand foot, commanded by the Earle
of Strathmore, Colonell ; Laird of Edziell, Lieutenant-Colonell ; Laird of Pitcur, Major; two troups of
horse, consisting both of 103 horse, one thereof commanded by the Earle of Airlie, the other by the
Lord Carnegie. The length of the Shyre from east to west, viz. from the Burne of Innergowrie upon
the west, which divides the shyre of Perth, to the Water of Northesk on the east, which divides the
shyre from the shyre of Kincardine, is 28 myles, and from any place of the coast on the south syd to
Bramar on the north syd will be much about the same. The Hill of Glenquiech, it is thought, will be
the centre. It is an excellent countrie along the coast, which we call the length thereof, exceedingly
fruitfull of all kynd of graine. Thrie good harbours for shipping, as shall be spoken of in their own
place ; several fisher-towns, as Northferrie, Panbryd, Easthaven of Panmure, Auchmutie, Ulishaven,
Ferredene ; divers salmond fishings on the rivers of Tay, North and South Esk; divers gentle-men's
houses, cuningares, and dovcoats, as is in all the rest of the shyre, and shall be described in their
proper place, and are abundantly provided of peat and turf for feuell; great abundance of cattel,
sheep, and horse, especially the brae country, who have great breeds of cattle, sheep, goats,
and horse ; and in all the laigh countrey for the most part,except in some few places on the coast
here they are scarce of grass, all breed als many as sufficiently serve themselves, but the chief
breeds in the shyre are the Earles of Strathmore, Southesk, Panmure, and Edzell, Pourie,
Balnamoone, both for horses and cattle.





   The principal rivers of the shyre are Northesk, having its beginning at a great distance in the highlands, and falls into the sea four myles to the east Montrose. Southesk hes likwayes its beginning in the highlands, and runneth through a pairt of that excellent countrie called Strathmore by the towne of Brechine, and thence to Montross, where it maketh an excellent harbour, and falleth in the sea. The Water of Lounane hath its beginning in the mosses of Loure, and falleth in the sea at Reidcastle.
Alongst that river is that fyne little countrey called Strathbegg.  Begg an Irish word, signifies little and mor great, Brothock, having its beginning in the meadowes of the Leyes, and running by the walls of the yeards of Aberbrothock, falls in the sea. Dichtie, having its beginning in the Loch of Lundie, runneth through a very fine countrey called Strath-Dichtie-Martine, and falleth in the sea at
Monifieth, four myles east from Dundie. Gowrie, which hath its beginning in the hills of the Garse of Gowrie, and falleth in the river Tay at Innergowrie, four myles west be Dundie. Garbit, taking its beginning in the mosses of Dilta and Hyndcastle, runneth by the Gastle Glammis, and thence west till it join with ane other water called the Water of Dean, coming from the Loch of Forfar, and run both together westward, and is called Dean, untill they meet with ane other water coming from Glenyla, and all thrie running west together, are called the Water of Glenyla, until they fall in the river of Tay, six myles above Perth, and there Ioose ther name, and these, with many others, make the river of Tay the greatest river of Scotland, and is navigable to the toune of Perth, and falleth in the sea six myles from the toune of Dundie at a place called the Gae of Barrie.  There are several other small rivers, which I judge unnecessarie to speak off.


   There are two Abbeys, viz. Aberbrothock and Couper; one Priory, Restennet; with several other religious houses,all now ruinat and demolished. Several great lochs, abounding with several kinds of fresh water fishes, as pykes, pearches, and eels; all kinds of water-foul and swans breeding in some of them. The lochs are Lundie, Kinnordie, Glames, Forfar, Restennet, Rescobie, Balgays, Balmadies, Barrie. Abundance of parks and inclosures, which shall be spoken to in their own proper place; great plentie of wyld foul in all places of the countrey, especially in the high-lands, where there are great plenty of muirfoules and heath-foules and others, some heart and hynd, roebuck and does. In the low countrey, abundance of patridges, plivers, dottrills,  quailes, snips, and other small foules in great picntie, besides birds of prey, as hawkes of all kinds, ravens, crows, and such lyk; all kind of salt and fresh waterfoul, and one especially, kittiowauks, nothing inferior in tast to the solan geese of the Basse.

   The countrey aboundeth in quarries of freestone, excellent for hewing and cutting, especially one at the Castle of Glammes far exceeding all others in the shyre, of a blewish colour; excellent milne-stones; great abundance of sklait and lymestono in divers places ; ane excellent lead myne in Glenesk, belonging to the Laird of Edzell. All alongst the sea coast there is abundance of that we call ware, in Latin alga marina, cast up by the sea, and is gathered by the people and carried to ther land, which occasions a great increase of comes where it is laid. There are abundance of amphibious
creatures bred in the rocks betwixt Arbroath and Ethie, called sea-calves, who gender as other beasts doe; and bring furth their young ones in the dry caves, whereof there is abundance, and suck them there till they be of some bignesse and strength to swime in the water; the old ones are of a huge bignes, nigh to ane ordinare ox, but longer, have no leggs, but in place thereof four finnes, in shape much lyk to a man's hand, whereupon they goe but slowly. In the end of September, which is the time they go a land for calving, several in the town of Aberbrothock goe to the caves with boates, and with lighted candles search the caves, where, apprehending, they kill diverse of them, both young and old, whereof they make very good oyll. There is lykwayes of them in the river of Tay, but smaller, whereof none are taken, or any benefit made; there is lykwayes ane other creature in shape lyk to ane fish called a mareswine, and will be of twenty or four-and-twenty feet long, all alongst the coast, but especially in the river of Tay, where they are in great abundance, killing a great deal of salmond, and
doing a great deall of injurie to the fishings. In thir few years there were great numbers cast up dead all alongst the river of Tay, with great wounds and bylings upon ther bodyes, which gave occasion to conjecture that there had been some fight amongst them at sea.



PRESBETRIE OF FORFAR.



   The Presbetrie of Forfar is divided in twelve parishes, viz. Forfar, Glames, Kennetles, Innerarity, Methie, Dunichine, Aberlemno, Bescobie, Gortaquhie, Olovay, Tannadyce, Kerremuir. 

   Forfar is a large parish, both toune and landward; hath but one minister, called Mr Small; the toune are patrons of the church, and is in the Diocese of St Andrews. The toune of Forfar being a burgh royall, hath a Provest, two Bailzies, have commissioners at Parliament, Convention of Estates, and Burrowes; John Camegy, Provost, and Commissioner to the Parliament. It is a very antient toune, and we find in historic the first Parliament that was ryden in Scotland was kept there: also, King Malcome Canmore had a house, and lived frequentlie there. The mines of the house are yet to be seen in a place called the Castlehill. At little distance is ane other little mott where the Queen's lodgings were, called to this day Queen's manore. It is a considerable little toune, and hath some little trade of cremerie ware and linen cloath, and such lyke. It is prettie well built, many good stone houses sklaited therein, and are presently building a very stately cross; hath a large church and steeple well plenishod with bells; they have some public revenue, and a good deal of mortifications to their poor, doled by the bountie of some of their town's men, who going abroad became rich ; they have a good tolbuith, with a bell in it; they have four great faires yeirly, and a weekly mercat. The Shirref keeps his courts there; and all publick and private meetings of the shyre, both in tyme of peace and war, are kept there. They have been very famous for their loyaltie, especially in that base transaction when King Charles the First, of ever blessed memorie, was delyvered over by our Scots Parliament to the English at Newcastle. Strang, the then Provost of Forfar, did enter his protestation publickly against the same, and presently rose from the table and deserted the meeting, which this present King Charles the Second so much resented that he called for the person, and publickly spoke to his advantage, and added something to the priviledges and immunities of the place he represented.

   In the landward parish thereof there are severall gentlemen's houses, as Meikleloure, a good house, and well planted, with an excellent moss, good cornes, and well grassed, belonging to the Earle of Northesk. Balmashanner, an old familie, belonging to Patrick Caimcrosse ; Halkerstoune, Gray ; Tarbeg, Gray, with a good moss; the place is very earand lyes in that excellent countrey of Srathmore.  Kinnetles, Mr Taileor, minister, in the Diocese of St Andrews, Bishop of Edinburgh, patrone, hath in it the house of Bridgetoune, belonging to . . . Lyon, a grandchild of the House of Strathmore. A good house, well planted, excellent yard and orchard, very fruitfull in bear and oats, and abundance of grass. Kinnetles is ane excellent come place, a tolerable good house, belonging to Patrick Bowar, a burgess in Dundee. It lies upon the water of Carbit.

   Glames. — The Castle of Glames, Earl of Strathmore's speciall residence in the shyre— a great and excellent house, re-edified, and furnished most stately with everything necessare — with excellent gaites, avenues, courts, garden, bowling-greens, parks, inclosures, hay meadows, and planting, very beautifull and pleasant, lying upon the river Carbit at that place called the Water of Glames, where there are hard by the house two great bridges, one of stone of two arches, and another of timber, as large as the other. Be-east the house, and within the park, is another, called the Yeat Bridge, bywhich their whole peats are brought, and by which his Lordship is served from his mosses be-north the water in great abundance, and hath ane other little house there called Cossines.
   In a little distance to the Castle of Glames is the towne thereof, all belonging to the Earl. It is a burgh of barronie, hath two great faires in it yearly, and a weekly mecrcat. There is a cunnigare within the park, and dovecoat at; the bum — Mr Lyon, minister thereof. In the Diocese of St Andrews — the Earl, patrone. The Familie is very ancient and honourable, one of the Lords of Glames having married King Robert II's daughter, and got at that tyme from the King the thannadge of Tannadice, which he still enjoyes at this time. Two of the Familie have been Chancellours of Scotland, and a third Thesaurier. The present Earle is one of his Majesty's Privye Gounsell, and was one of the Thesaurie. He hath many considerable vassals in the shyre.

   Glen, belonging to the Laird of Claverhouse, Grahame, ane ancient gentleman of good extraction and great estate in the shyre — a pleasant place, a good house, and well planted, excellent quarrie of freestone and sklait, well furnished of peat and turfe, and in the hill thereof abundance of muirfoull. The sklait is carried to Dundie on horse-ack, and from thence by sea to all places within the river of Forth. Dunoone, belonging to George Innes ; the Earle of Strathmore superior.
   Inneraritie and Methie are now joyned in one parish, and have but one minister, viz. Mr Grahame. In the Diocese of St Andrews — the King's Majesty, patrone. Little- Loure is a good house, belonging to the Earl of Northesk, who is superior of the haill parish of Methie, well appointed of peat and turff for their own and the country's use about. Wester Methie, to Patrick Bower of Kinnetles; Easter Methie, to Alexander Bower of Kincaldrum. The kirk of Methie is ruinous and decayed. Barronie of Innerarity belongs to the Laird of Pourie, Fotheringhame, with a house of that same name, with a great park, and birkwood therein. Item, ane other excellent new built park called the park of Tarbra and Inverichtie, a good house, belonging to William Gray. Kingoldrum, to Alexander Bower, who hath a considerable interest in the parish, purchased by his grandfather, a burgess of Dundie. This parish lies on both sydes of the water of Carbit.

   Dunichine, baronie of Ouchterlony, which formerly belonged to the Lairds of Ouchterlony of that Ilk, but hath no house on it, is a considerable thing, and a pleasant place, belonging to the Earl of Southesk. Barronie of Tulcorse, belonging to John Ouchterlony of Guynd, only representative of the forsaid familie of Ouchterlony of that Ilk. Dumbarrow. Arret. The parish lies on both sydes of the Water of Lounane, which at that place is called Evenie: the minister called Mr Lindsay. In the Diocese of Brechine ; Earl of Panmure, patrone thereof.

   Aberlemno. — The chief heritor thereto is the Laird of Auldbar, Young, chief of his name, ane excellent and great house, good yards and planting, built by one of the Earls of Kinghorne, and twice given to the second sons of the House, which for want of heirs returned to the Family again, and was lastly sold to one Sinclair, from whom this present Laird coft [bought] the same. Melgund, belonging to tho heirs of Alexander Murray, son to Sir Robert Murray, late Provost of Edinburgh, ane excellent house, good yards, and two fyne parks, and much planting; ane excellent outer court before the gait, with excellent stone walls about it: the house built by Cardinall Beatone, and the parks by the Marquis of Huntlie, and some addition made to all by Henry Maule, late laird thereof. It is a very sweet and pleasant place, fruitfull in cornes, well grassed, and abundantly provided of turf, as is also Auldbar, and the rest of the parish, from the Muir of Montroymont. Garsgoume, belonging  Alexander Campbel. Tilliequhadline, belonging to the ancient name of Thorntoune of that Ilk. Balgayes, anciently belonging to the familie of Ouchterlony of that Ilk, now to Mr John Wiseheart, Advocat and Gommissar of Edinburgh, representative of the familie of Logic- Wiseheart, chief of his name. Mr Ouchterlony, minister. In the Diocese of St Andrewes ; the King's Majestic and the Earle of Perth, patrons, who present per vices.

  Rescobie. — There are severall gentlemen's houses therein, as Pitscandlie Lindsay, a good house, and well planted. The old Priorie of Restennet, whereof the church walls and steeple are yet extant, with the loch formerly spoken, the Earle of Strathmore, Pryor ; Dod, Hunter ; Garsbank, Guthrie; Wester Garse, a pleasant place, well planted, belonging to Sir Patrick Lyon, Advocat. Drummio, Nisbit ; Balmadie, formerlie belonging to the Lairds of Ouchterlony of that Ilk, and was the manner house of tho family, and their buriall was at the kirk of Rescobie, until they purchased the lands of Kellie, where, after having built ane house, they changed both dwelling-place and burial; withaneloch abounding with pykes, pearches, and eels, but all kinds of fresh water fowls, as all the other lochs thereabout are. And further, in the loch of Bestennet do swans yearly bring furth their young ones; there are severall eyl-arks on these lochs, viz. Balmadies, Balgayes, Bestennet, Guthrie, Pitmoues. Mr Lyon, minister. In the Diocese of St Andrews ; Earl Strathmore, patrone.




  Tannadyce. — Most part of the parish belongs to the Earl of Strathmore, called the Thannadge of Tannadyce, and was by King Robert the II. given to the Lord Glames, in tocher with his daughter. There are severall gentlemen's houses in the parochine besyd, as Kinnatie, Ogilvy; Inshewane, Ogilvy; Caime, Lindsay; Easter and Wester Ogils, Lyons; Whytwall, Lyon ; Balgillie, Lyon ; Murthill, Lyell,ane ancient familie and cheiff his name, a pleasant place lying upon the water of South Esk ; Memus, Livingstoune ; Memus, Guthrie. Mr Lyon, minister. In the Diocese of St Andrewes ; New Colledge thereof, patrons to the church. 

   Cortaquhie and Clovay. — Cortaquhie, the Earl of Airlie's speciall residence, is a good house, well planted, lies pleasantly on the water of South Esk. The whole parish belongs to the Earl. Clovay belonging to Sir David Ogilvy, brother to the Earle, is a fyne highland countrey, abounding in cattle and sheep, some comes, abundance of grass and hay, as all the highland countreys of the shyre are. It hath a chappel, and some benefice for a vicar that reads there every Sabbath, and preaches there. The family is very ancient and honourable, and have ever been very famous for their loyaltie, espeiallie in the times of our Civill Warrs. The late and present Earl of Airlie, with his brethren Sir Thomas, who died in his Prince's service, and Sir David, now living, have, with diverse others of their name, given such evident testimonie of their loyalty to their Prince that will make them famous to all succeeding generationes, which doubtless you will get account of, to be recorded to their everlasting honour. Mr Small, minister. In the Diocese of Brechine ; the Earl, patrone.
   Kerremuir. — A Burgh of Regalitie, holden for the most part of the Laird of Pourie, Fotheringhame, who holds the same, with the miln of Kerremyir, of the Marquis of Douglas; the rest of the Laird of Inneraritie, who holds it the same way — a very ancient and honorable familie of the name of Ogilvy, who have been lykwayes very remarkable for their loyaltie, Sir Thomas, young Laird thereof, being executed at Glasgow for his concurrence in his Majestie's service with his Commissioner, the Marquis of Montross ; and his second brother Sir David, father to this present Laird, suffered very much by imprisonment, being taken prisoner at Worcester, where he lay long, was fyned, and his estate sequestrated for a long tyme by the rebells. It is a great estate, a good old house, fyne yards, and much planting ; it lyeth pleasantlie upon the waters of South Esk and Garritie. Glenpressine, a fyne highland interest belonging to the Laird of Bandoch in Perthshyre. It lyes at a great distance from Kerremuir, and therfore hath a curate who reads in the chapell every Sabbath-day. Logic, Ogilvy, a cadet of the House of Balfour ; a good house, well grassed, with excellent meadows and mosses. Ballinshoe, belonging to Robert Fletcher, a pleasant place, good mosses, lying within the forest of Plattone, where the Earle of Strathmore has a very considerable interest, which, with a great deall more lands therabout, belonged to the great and famous House of Crawfoord. Glesswall, Lundie. Much of the parish hold of the Marquis of Douglas, as doeth all the Begalitie, ether waird or feu. He hes his Begalitie Court in the toune of Kerremuir, where his Depute-Clerk and other officers, put in by himself, do reside. It hath thrie great faires, and a weekly mercat of all kinds of commodities the countrey affords, but especially of timber, brought from the highlands in great abundance.


PRESBETRIE OF DUNDIE.


   The Presbetrie of Dundie is divided in eleven parishes within the shyre of Forfar, the rest within the shyre of Perth, viz. Dundie, Moniefieth, Monikie, Murroes, Maines, Tealing, Ouchterhouse, Liff, Strathmartine, Lundie, Benvie. Dundee hath a great landward parish besyd the towne, which is a large and great towne, very populous, and of a great trade, and hath many good ships. The buildings are large and great, of thrie or four stories high ; a large merkat place, with a very fyne tolbuith and cross ; two great churches, with a very high steeple well furnished of bells, as is also the tolbuith. They have thrie nunisters, whereof the towne presents two, and the Constable of Dundie one ; their Magistrates are a Provost, four Bailies, Dean of Gild, and others are shirreffs within their own bounds : they are joyned in nothing to the shyre except the militia, whereunto they furnish 150 foot. It lyeth upon the water of Tay very pleasantlie, and hath good yards and meadowes about it. They have four great fairs yearly, two niercat days everie week, and a great fish mercat dayly. There is a great consumption there of all kynd of victualls ; the excyse of malt there being little short of the whole excyse of the shyre and burghs, besyd a great victuall mercat twice a week for service of the towne, besydes great quantities of all kinds of grain, coft by the merchants, and transported, by which retumes they import all kynd of commoditie from Holland, Norway, Denmark, and the east countrey. They export lykwayes all other our native commodities, and import other things necessary for the service of the countrey, which serves above 20 myles round about their towne. Their trade is very great, as is evident by the books of Custome. They have dependance in many things upon the Constables, who have been of the name of Scrimgeour, heritors of Dudope, and Standard-Bearers of Scotland, ane ancient, loyall, and honorable familie, and of late were made Earls of Dundie ;^ but the estate falling in his Majestie's hands as ultimus heresthe Lord Haltoune, now Earl of Lauderdaill, was constitute the King^s donator, and has the same privilege and superioritie, with the haill estate of the late Constable and Earle of Dundie.

   The toune has a good shore, well built with hewen stone, with a key on both sydes, whereof they load and unload their ships, with a great house on the shore called the Pack-house, where they lay up their merchant goods ; ane large hospitall, with diverse easement and a good vent. The land-wart parish thereof are first Dudope, ane extraordinare pleasant and sweet place, a good house, excellent yards, much planting, and fyne parks. It lyes  pleasantly on the syde of the hill of Dundie, overlooks the town, and as of purpose built there to command the place. Dundie Law is at the back thereof, ane exceeding high mott hill. The Bonnet Hill of Dundie, a large towne, all feuars of the House of Dudope. Claypots, belonging to the Laird of Glaverhouse; Blackness, Wadderbum, a good house, with a considerable estate in acres about the toune ; Duntroone, Grahame, a pleasant place, with fyne parks and meadowes about it ; Pitkerro, belonging to Durhame, a good house, extraordinary well planted, good yards and orchards, a very pleasant place ; Baldovie and Drumgeicht to Clayhills of Innergowrie. Craigie, Kid, excellent land, a good house, with a little new park ; Balgey, Davidsone, a good house, and good land. Mr Scrimgeour, Mr Gruthrie, Mr Rait, ministers; MrBanken, catechist. In the Diocese of Brechine.

   Moniefieth. — Laird of Balumbie, brother to the Earl of Panmure, hath the kirktowne thereof, with the salmon fish-ings in the river of Tay, with a considerable estate in the parish besydes. Grange, Durhame, ane ancient family and chief of his name, a good house, yards, and planting, with salmond fishings in the river of Tay ; Ardounie, a good house, yards, and much planting, with dovecoats there and at Grainge, both belonging to him ; Balgillo, Hunter, with a salmond fishing upon Tay, and a great cuningaire ; Omachie,* Durham, with a house and dovecoat ; Kingdunie, Broughtie Castle, with a great salmond fishing belonging to the Laird of Pourie, Fotheringhame, who has lykewayes ane other interest in the parish. Mr Dempster, minister. In the Diocese of St Andrews ; Earl of Panmure, patrone.

   Monikie. — Most part of all the parish, with- the castles of Dunie and Monikie, belong properly to the Earl of Panmure, and is called the Barony of Dunie, wherein is that sweet and excellent place Ardcstrie, with excellent yards, hay meadows, and a park. The whole Baronie is excellent land, and hath severall dovecoats therein ; there is lykwayes a fine park at Monikie belonging to the said Earl. Auchinlek of that Ilk, a very ancient farailie, which has continued in that name these many generations, ane old high tower house, which is seene at a great distance at sea, and is used for a landmark by those that come in the river of Tay. Mr Bait, minister. In the Diocese of Brechine ; Earl of Panmure, patrone.

   Murroes. — Balumbie, the Earl of Panmure''s second brother's designatione, ane old ruinous demolished house, but is a very pleasant place. The Laird of Pourie, Fothringhame, a very honourable and ancient familie, of a great and flourishing fortune. He has lykwayes the Murroes in that parish. Both are good houses, sweet and pleasant places, excellent yards, well planted parks, and hay meadows and dovecoats extraordinary good ; and a little from the house of Pourie, toward the south, a fine little wood of fir and birk, with a stone dyke ; and is chief of his name. Easter Pourie, Wedderburne, formerly belonging to the Lairds of Pourie. Ogilvy, who were repute chief of that great and ancient name of Ogilvy ; it is a very good house, with good yeards and parks about it ; and at the foot of the castle- wall runs a litle rivulet, which going to Balumbie, and from thence to Pitkerro, falls in the river of Dichtie, is a very pleasant place, and he is chief of his name, whose predecessors have been clerks of Dundie for these many generations. Westhall, with a dovecoat ; as also one at Easter Pourie, belonging to Mr Archibald Peirson. Mr Edward,^ minister. In the Diocese of St Andrews ; Earl of Panmure, patrone.
   Maines. — The Maines of Fintrie, belonging to the Laird of Fintrie, Grahame, ane ancient and honourable familie, whose predecessor was eldest son of a second marriage of the Lord Grahame; severall considerable persones cadets of his House. It is a good hous; excellent yards, with a great deal of good planting, with parks and dovecoats.  Claiverhouse, Laird of Claiverhouse's  speciall residence, and Little Kirktowne, Scrimgeour, laitly purchased by a merchant of Dundie of that name. The Laird of Pourie, Fotheringhame, has ane interest  lykwayes in that parish. It is all extraordinarie good land, and lyes upon the water of Dichtie. Mr Strachan, minister. In the Diocese of St Andrews; Earl Panmure, patrone.

   Tealing. — The house of Tealing, Maxwell, is a good house, well planted, and good yards. The Earl of Strathmore, Lairds of Pourie and Claiverhouse, have interest in the parish. It is excellent good land, well accomodate in grass and fir, and lyes betwix Dundie and the hills of Sidlaw.  Mr M'Gill, minister. In the Diocese of Dunkeld ; the King's Majestie, patrone.
   Ouchterhouse belongs for the most part to the Earl of Strathmore ; a fyne house, good yards, and excellent parks and meadows, with a dovecoat. It formerly belonged to the Earl of Buchane. Mr Robertsone, minister. Within the Diocese of Dunkeld ; Earl Strathmore, patrone.
Liff, Logie, and Innergowrie, three churches joined in one. The lands in the parish are extraordinare good, as Newbigging and Innergowrie, belonging to Robert Clayhills; ane excellent house, good yeards, much planting, a great park and dovecoat. Dryburgh, Zeaman, hath a good estate 
there, where, at a place belonging to him called Patalpe, that great battail betwixt the Scots and Picts was fought, and Alpinus" head struck off, called from thencefurth Basalpine, and now Patalpie. Nether Liff, belonging to the Lord Gray, who have been formerly most ancient and honourable, being still the first Lord of the kingdome, and of whom are descended many considerable persons. Mr Cristisone, minister. In the Diocese of St Andrews ; the King's Majestic, patrone.

   Strathmartine. — The Laird of Strathmartine, a good house, well accomodate with comes and grass, and chief of the name of Wyntoune. Baldovane, Nairne, a very ancient name in the shyre of Fyffe, whose predecessors were Lairds of Sanfoord, Nairne, on the south syd of the Water of Tay, over against Dundie, and is chief of his name. Mr Fergusone, minister. In the Diocese of St Andrewes; Archbishop thereof, patrone.

   Lundie. — Earl Strathmore has ane interest there. The greatest part of the rest of the parish belongs to ane Duneane, a merchant's son in Dundie. It is a big old house, hath a great loch, abounding in pykes, pearches, and eels, with abundance of fresh water foul. Mr Campbell last minister; now vacant. In the Diocese of St Andrews; and in respect the kirk is joyned in one with the kirk of Foules; the patronage is debaitable betwixt the Lord Gray, Laird of Auchtertyre, heritor of Foules, and some other pretenders.








   Benvie. — The whole parish belonged formerly to the Earl Dundie, and now to the Earl of Lauderdaill. By that same right he holds the rest of the Earl Dundie's estate. It holds of the Earl of Panmure as superior, and was anciently a pairt of the Barronie of Panmure ; a very sweet place, good ground, and borders with the shyre of Perth. Mr Scrymgeour, minister. In the Diocese of St Andrews; Earl Lauderdaill, patrone.

PRESBETRIE OF MEIGLE.


   The Presbetrie of Meigle is divided in twelve parishes in the shyre of Forfar, the rest are in Perth, viz. — Keatens, Newtyld, Eassie, Nether Glenyla,Over Glenyla, Blacklounans, Nether Airlie, Lentrathene, Kingoldrum, Couper, Ruthvene.

   Keatens, wherein is the house of Pitcur, belonging to the Laird of Pitcur, Halyburtoune ; it is a great old house, with much fyne planting. It is ane ancient, great, and honourable familie, whereof there are many persones of good quality descended, and they have been allyed to many honourable families in the kingdome. Most part of the parish belongs properlie to him, and the rest most of them his vassals, or otherways depends upon him. Fotherance, whose grandfather, the Lord Fotherance, a Senator of the Colledge of Justice, was a nephew of the House of Pitcur. In the Diocese of Dunkeld ; but the minister's name and patrone are unknown to the informer.
   Newtyld. — The house of Newtyld, with the most part of the whole parish belonging formerlie in propertie, and the rest of the parish in superioritie, to the Laird of Pitcur, and lately sold by him to Sir George M'Kenzio of Roshaugh, his Majesty's Advocat, is a very good house, much planting. Ane excellent countrey, fertill in cornes, abounding in grass for pastur, and meadows for hay, not inferior to any part of the shyre. Abundance of excellent moss, and extraordinare good pasturage for multitudes of sheep on the hills of Kilpumie. Mr Black, minister. In the Diocese of Dunkeld; Earl of Panmure, patrone.

   Eassie and Nevoy, two small parishes served with one minister, and have preaching in them every other Sabbath-day. Both the parishes are extraordinary good land, and well served of grass and fir. The heirs of the late Lord Couper have a. considerable interest there. The Laird of Nevoy of that Ilk, ane ancient gentleman, and chief of his name. The Lord Nevoy, late Senator of the Colledge of Justice, who also assumes the title of Nevoy. Earl of Strathmore hath ane interest in that  parochine. Mr John Laminie of Dunkennie, a pleasant place. Kirktoun of Essie belonging to the Laird of Balthyock in Perthshyre. All thir parochins lye in Strathmore. Mr Lammie, minister. In the Diocese of St Andrews.

   Couper. — The precinct of the abbey built by Malcolm IV., King of Scotland, and some rent belonging thereto, is only in the shyre of Forfar, and pertaines to the heirs of the late Lord Couper. It has been a very sweet place, and lyes in a very pleasant countrey, but now nothing but rubbish. Mr Hay, minister. In the Diocese of Dunkeld; Lord Balmerinoch, patrone.

   Ruthvine. — A little parish belonging altogether to a gentleman of the name of Crightoune, ane ancient familie; a good house, well planted, and lyes pleasantly upon the water of Dean, and a prettie oak wood. He hath ane estate equivalent thereto in Nether Glenyla ; it and the former lye in Strathmore. Mr Fife, minister. In the Diocese of Dunkeld; Earl Panmure, patrone.

   Over and Nether Glenyla are joined in one parish, and have severall small heritors therein holding of the Abbey of Couper. They are highland countreys, have some comes, abundance of cattle, sheep, goat, and much hay. They live most on butter, cheese, and milk ; they kill much venison and wyld foull. The summer they goe to the far distant glens which border upon Braemar, and there live grassing their cattle in little houses which they build upon their coming, and throw down when they come away, called sheels. Their dyet is only milk and whey, and a very little nieatt, and what vennison or wyld foull they can apprehend. The Earl of Airlie hes a good interest in that parish called Forther, with two great woods called Crundirth and Craigiefrisch. He has a large glen for grassing, with abundance of hay meadows, with a free forrestrie, which in those places they reckone much worth. The nature of the people and these of Blacklounans, a highland place in the parish of Alithe, consisting of divers small heritors holding of the Laird of Ashintillie, Spalding, all one with the other highlandmen, that you will get described to you in other places, except that the Irish is not their native language, for none speak Irish there except strangers that come from other parts; notwithstanding, that in Glenshie and Strathairdle, their next neighbours, the minister always preaches in the afternoon in the Irish tongue. Mr Nevoy, minister. In the Diocese of Dunkeld ; Earle Airlie, patrone.

   Nether Airlie. — The Baronie of Baickie,pertaining to the Earle Strathmore, a great interest and excellent land, and als good comes, and a great deal more ear [i. e. early] than upon the coast; the house of Airlie brunt in the tyme of the rebellion, becaus of his loyal tie, and never re-edified. The Laird of Balfour, Ogilvy, has lykwayes a considerable estate in it; it lyes in Strathmore. Minister, Mr Lyon. Within the Diocese of Dunkeld ; Earl Strathmore, patrone.





   Lentrathene. — Most part of the parochine belongs to the Earl Airlie ; there are some heritors besyd. Peell, Ogilvy. Shannalie, anciently belonging to the Lairds of Ouchterlony of that Ilk, now to Patrick Hay. Glenquharitie, Ogilvy. Mr Ogilvy, minister. In the Diocese of Dunkeld; Earl Airlie, patrone.

   Kingoldrum. — The Laird of Balfour, Ogilvy, hath the greatest interest there, ane ancient gentleman, and a great estate; it hath a great house built by Cardinall Beatone, and much planting. Persie, Ogilvy; Persy, Lindsay; Baldovie, Hunter.  The Earl Airlie hath ane interest there. Earl of Panmure hath a considerable feu-duetie paid out of that parish. Kingoldrum and Lentrathene are two brae parishes, but have abundance of come, grassland fures, and lye pleasantly on the south syd of the hills. Lentrathene hes lykwayes a great loch abounding with such fish and foull, as the other loches of the shyre are. Mr Bait, minister. In the Diocese of Dunkeld ; Earl Panmure, patrone.

PRESBETRIE OF BRECHINE.


  The Presbetrie of Brechine is divided in eighteen kirks, viz. — Oathlaw, Feame, Carraldstoune, Menmuir, Navar, Brechine, Strickathroe, Peart, Logic, Dun, Montross, Inchbraick, Marietoune, Einnaird, Famell, Edzell, Lethnet,and Lochlie.

   Oathlaw. — The whole parish formerly belonged to the Lord Spynie, but now to the Laird of Finhaven, a second sone of the House of Northesk. It was a great old house, but now by the Industrie of this present Laird is made a most excellent house ; fine roomes and good furniture, good yards, excellent planting, and inclosures, and avenues. It lyes, as all the Presbetrie of Brechine doe, except the brae countrey, in Strathmore, and the water of Southesk runs pleasantly by the foot of the Castle of Finhaven, and has some bushes of wood upon the water; it is ane excellent corne countrey, and well grassed. Mr Straitone, minister. In the Diocese of Brechine ; Laird of Finhaven, patrone.

   Fearne. — The parish belongs totallie to the Earl of Southesk, and hath a very good house therein called the Waird, well planted, good yards; the house presently repaired by him, and well furnished within ; it hath ane excellent iyne large great park called the Waird of Feame. It is a very fine brae countrey, much com, and abundance of bestiall; plentie of muirfouU in the braes thereof. Mr Gramond, minister. In the Diocese of Dunkeld ; Earl Southesk, patrone.

   Carraldstone belongs totallie to the Laird of Balnamoone, Camegy, whose grandfather was a son of the House of Southesk ; a great and most delicat house, well built, brave lights^and of a most excellent contrivance, without debait the best geiitleman's house in the shyre; cxtraordinare much planting, delicate yards and gardens with stone walls, ane excellent avenue with ane range of ash-trees on every syde, ane excellent arbour, for length and breadth none in the countrey lyke it. The house built by Sir Harry Lindsay of Kinfaines after [wards] Earl of Grawfourd, which great and ancient Familie is now altogether extinct. It was formerly within the parochine of Brechine, and being at so great a distance from the towne of Brechine, Sir Alexander Gamegy, grandfather to this Balnamoone, built a very fyne little church, and a fyne minister's manse, upon his own expenses, and doted a stipend, and gave a gleib thereto out of his own estate. It lyes on the north syd of the Water of Southesk. Mr Murray, minister. In the Diocese of Brechine. Laird of Balnamoone, patrone.

   Menmuir. — The half of the parish belongs to the Laird of Balnamoone, with the house well planted, good yards, ane excellent come countrey, well accomodate of grass, hay, and fir. Baljordie, ane ancient familie, and chief of the name of Synuner. Balhall, Lyell ; Barroun, Livingstoune ; a pleasant sweet stance, good yards, and well planted. Mr Gampbel, minister. In the Diocese of Dunkeld ; Balhall, patrone.





   Navar. — Most part thereof being a little highland parish, belongs to the Earl of Panmure and Balnamoon. Its a part of the Earl of Panmure's title of honour. Balnamoon has a house in it called Tilliebirnie, well accomodate in grass park, and meadows. Mr Sympsone, minister. In the Diocese of Brechine; the King's Majestic, patrone.

   Edzell, Lethnet, and Lochlie, being three parishes, have only two ministers, one in Edzell, and one for Lethnet and Lochlie, and have a curate, who hath a benefice, and reads at the chappel of Lochlie; belong all propertie to David Lindsay, Laird of Edzell, ane ancient and honourable familie, and only representative of the famous familie and house of Grawfoord-Lindsay. It is ane excellent dwelling, a great house delicate gardens with walls, sumptously built of hewn stone polished, with pictures and coats of armes in the walls, with a fyne summer-house, with a house for a bath on the south comers thereof, far exceeding any new work of thir times, excellent kitchine-garden, and orcheards with diverse kynds of most excellent fruit and most delicate; new park with falow-deer. Built by the present Laird ; it lyes closs to the hills, betwixt the water called the West Water and water of Northesk, which joyning together, make, as it were, a demi-island thereof; it hath an excellent outer court, so large and levell, that of old, when they used that sport, they used to play at the football there, and there are still four great growing trees which were the debts. It is ane most extraordinare warm and early place, so that the fruits will be readie there a fourtnight sooner than in any place of the shyre, and hath a greater increase of bear and other graine than can be expected elsewhere.

   West from Edzell lyes Lethnet, and northwest from Lethnet lyes Lochlie, both highland countries, but pay a great rent in moe, besydes casualities of cowes, wederis, lambs, butter, cheese, wool, &c. There is abundance of vennison, muir and heath-foules; in the forrest thereof great plentie of wood. In Lochlie is the great and strong castle of Innermark, upon the water of Northesk. It is very well peopled ; and upon any incursions of the Highland katranes, for so those Highland robbers are called, the Laird can, -  upon very short advertisment, raise a good number of weill armed prettie men, who seldom suffer any prey to goe out of their bounds unrecovered. Mr Iryyne, minister of Edzell ;  Mr Norie, minister of Lethnet and Lochlie. In the Diocese of Brechine; Laird Edzell, patrone to all.
   Brechine is a Royall Burgh. The Bishopp is Provost thereof; hath the electione of a Bailie. Earl Panmure hath the electione of the eldest Bailie, and the toune [has] one. It lyes very pleasantlie upon the north syde of the water of Southesk, which runneth by the walls thereof. The yards thereof, to the south end of the Tenements thereof, where there is a large well built stone bridge of two arches, and where Earl Panmure hath a considerable salmond fishing, and lykwayes croves under the castle walls, which lyes pleasantly on the water, and is a delicat house, fyne yards, and planting, which, with a great estate thereabout, belonged formerly to the Earl Marr, and now to the Earl Panmure, and is called the Castle of Brechine.

   The toune is tollerablie well built, and hath a considerable trade, by reason of their vicinity to Montross, being fyve [eight English] myles distant from it ; but that which most enriches the place is their frequent faires and mercats, which occasion a great concourse of people from all places of the countrey, having a great fair of cattle, horse, and sheep, the whole week after Whytsunday, and the Tuesday thereafter a great mercat in the toune ; they have a weekly mercat every Tuesday throughout the yeare, where there is a great resort of highland men with timber, peats, and heather, and abundance of muirfoull, and extraordinarie good wool in its seasone. Item, A great weekly mercat of cattle, from the first of October to the first of Januare, called the Crofts Mercat.  Item, A great horse mercat weekly throughout all Lent. Item, A great horse fair, called Palm Sunday's Fair.i It is a very pleasant place, and extraordinare good land about it. Earl of Southesk has a great interest lykwayes in the parish. Ballnabriech, belonging to the Laird of Balnamoone, a good house, and a considerable thing. Cookstoune, belonging to John Camegy, lyeth very pleasantly at the North Port of Brechine, and is good land. The Laird of Findourie hath a considerable interest there, the most of it in acres about the toune ; a good house, and well planted. Arret, belonging to the Viscount of Arbuthnot, is a fine little house, lying upon the north syd of Southesk, with a fishing. Auldbar hath lykwayes an interest there. Pitforthie, Bait ; Keathock, Edgar ; with a good new house, built by this present Laird. Mr Skinner, minister.
   Strickathroe. — A great pairt of the parish belongs to Sir  David Falconer, Lord President of the Colledge of Justice, and lyes on the south syd of North Esk, and is called the Baronie of Dunlappie. Strickathroe, Turnbull, hath a good estate in it, as also the Earl of Southesk. Mr Gouttis, minister. In the Diocese of Brechine ; Earl of Southesk and Lord President, patrons, and [they] preaent per mees. Peart — Is ane excellent sweet place, lyeth on the south syde of the North Esk, excellent good land, and belongeih equallie to Sir John Falconer of Galraw and James Scott of Logic, where there is a large stone bridge of two great arches over the water of North Esk, built by one of the Lairds of Dun; but not being altogether finished, there were raills put upon the same of very good hewen stone, amounting to a great expence, by this present Laird of Dun. Mr Guild, minister. In the Diocese of Brechine ; Heretors, patrons. The ministers there are chanters of Brechine.


Friday, 22 March 2019

Restenneth Priory

One recurring theme of mine to state that certain places are crying out for archaeological investigation and there is nowhere that is more true of than Restenneth Priory. The ruins of Restenneth  sit tranquilly around  2 km east of  the town of Forfar in Angus, in what is now open parkland.  The building occupies a knoll,  which wasoriginally a raised promontory jutting out into the western end of Restenneth Loch, a body of water drained at the end of the 18th century. Early sources, including the History of the Picts by Harry Maule of Melgund (1706), insist that the site was connected to the mainland by a drawbridge, yet no sign of this has ever been satisfactorily proven*.  The tallest part of the building is the spire, still standing at 14 m high,  and while sections of the cloister and choir survive to a reasonable height the rest of the building has been reduced to ground level.  There is debate about the date of the earliest building work here, but much of the priory was constructed in the 13th century, with some remodelling of the building in subsequent centuries.

* The 'drawbridge' is also mentioned by the English antiquarian Francis Grose at the end of the 18th century.




Restenneth: The Name and the Place


   Much of the controversy about Restenneth centres on the debate about whether the existing medieval Augustinian priory contains, in its fabric, elements of an earlier medieval building, possibly linked to an 8th century Pictish church.  That will be examined below.  The place of the building in the landscape also offers clues.  According to W. J. Watson,  the name Restennet(h) (older variant Rostinoth) means,  'promontory (or moor) of the fire', which requires consideration, given its watery setting. Is it possible the fire mentioned here has a ritual context?  That is pure speculation, but it does seem that the place may have been regarded as religiously significant before the construction of a Christian place of worship.  There is a stone in the masonry here which shows ancient cup and ring marks, literally marking it out as a place of special significance.

  James Johnston gives a completely different derivation of the name: 'the residence in the woods'.  Alan Reid offers us a folk explanation of the place-name which has arisen in modern times (The Royal Burgh of Forfar, p. 4).  According to this tale a band of warriors were after some particular foes in the area and asked some locals where these enemies might be.  The helpful locals pointed out a distant hollow and said 'They rest in it,' which  gave rise to the place-name Restenneth. But the warriors found no-one when they got there.  A further query informed them the enemy were 'far afore', which is how Forfar got its name. The same author states that, at the start of the 20th century, the local pronunciation of the name was Riskennet.   Attempts by Reid to link the second element of the name with annat, signifying an ancient 'mother church' are equally spurious.






Restenneth and the Pictish King Nechtan mac Der-Ilei


   Restenneth, in late records, has an intriguing foundation legend which has already been partially covered in an earlier post which detailed the arrival of an extremely shadowy cleric named Curetán   or Boniface in Pictland.  (It can be read here.)  While I will return again in future to this tradition, especially focusing on how the tale relates to other royal and early religious sites and stories in Angus, a summary is needed here.  Several sources state that Curetán/Boniface landed with a company at Invergowrie and founded a church there and another at Tealing.  Some versions then state that the saint was met by a king named Nechtan, along with his army at Restenneth, or alternatively that he founded a church here and remained at Restenneth for some years before journeying to north Pictland.

   These wisps of tradition have long been linked to the story recorded by the Venerable Bede that relates how the Pictish king Nechtan son of Der-Ilei wrote to Ceolfrith, abbot of Monwearmouth, around the year 710 (or perhaps several years later) asking for instruction in the Roman faith and assistance to build a stone church.  This he promised to dedicate to St Peter.  Restenneth, Tealing and Invergowrie (plus the important site of Meigle) were all dedicated to St Peter.  Nechtan's motives were partly inspired by a wish to diminish the 'family of Iona' and their influence in Pictland, linked to the political aspirations of Gaelic Dal Riada in his kingdom.  The Irish monks were thrown out of Pictland by the king in 717.  James Fraser notes that Restenneth is in close proximity to the supposed site of the Battle of Dunnichen.  The foundation of a Northumbrian-Pictish monastery near there, a generation later, would be a powerful symbol of the political rapprochement of the two nations.  John Stuart believes the connection between the early royal ownership of nearby Forfar is significant, pointing out the fact that the burgh's church was a satellite of Restenneth, signifying a close connection between the places.

  So tantalisingly vague is the legend, it is not easy to interpret.  Elements in some versions of the story point to the pontificate of Pope Boniface IV (608-15), in which case the Nechtan mentions would likely be Nechtan, the grandson of Uerb.  But the wider details favour Nechtan son of Der-Ilei, who ruled between 706 and 724.  Rosemarkie, the saint's northern foundation, is an alternative candidate for the Northumbrian influenced stone church. (It was also dedicated to St Peter.)  But mention of this far north site in association with Curetán/Boniface in the 15th century Chronicle of Andrew of Wyntoun is deceptive as some scholars have detected that Rosemarkie may be a misreading for Restenneth in some of his sources.

   But several other elements favour Angus. There was a small chapel dedicated to St Boniface near Blindwells, just south of Forfar, whose foundations were seen by Jamieson prior to 1822.  It was allegedly built on the site of a battle where a Pictish king defeated the Scots in the year 820, and named after him Feradeth or Feridan Field.  Another element in the mystery is a church belonging to the priory somewhere near Forfar which was called Ecclespether, the church of Peter.  The element eccles from Latin ecclesia is a  significant marker of an early church foundation. Although the location of this place has now been lost it has suggested that it was Aberlemno. The historian G.W.S. Barrow, while not identifying it as Aberlemno, linked the place with the Northumbrian-Pictish church dedicated to St Peter.  Ecclespether could equally well be Restenneth itself or even the site of a long-cist cemetery nearby, at Auchterforfar. Co-incidentally or not, the lands of Auchterforfar belonged to the priory of Restenneth (see list below).


Restenneth:  How Old Is the Priory Building? The Augustinian Priory


   Whether of not the foundation of Restenneth ultimately dates to the 8th century, current consensus agrees that the surviving building does not contain evidence of material that old, though a previous generation of historians speculated whether it did or not.  A study by Eric Birnie, concentrating on the fabric of the south doorway, states that this dates to either the 11th or  early 12 century compares the building with some respects of another supposed ancient foundation, Abernethy. Despite this, as I advised earlier, there have never been any substantial archaeological excavations conducted on the site. Historic Scotland's Statement of Significance remarks on the potential for further investigation of the monument, to determine the age of the components of the structure and to find out whether it sits on or near earlier ecclesiastical buildings.  (It also calls for a further look at the dating and construction of the upper part of the tower.)

   There is no documentary evidence for the site prior to the 12th century when Restenneth became a house of Augustinian canons.  The exact date of the foundation of Restenneth is not known, but it appears in the records of the reign of David I (1124-1153), when the canons and prior were granted 20 shillings from the rents of the burgh of Montrose.

   Around 1140, King David I. gave to the monks the rents of certain thanages, bondages, and other
royal lands. In the next few decades grants and privileges were made to Restenneth.  These included
the churches of Craignathro,  Forfar,  Petterden (between Forfar and Tealing), of Tealing, of Duninald, of Dysart, and - significantly - Egglispether. Between 1159 and 1163, King
Malcolm IV., by a charter signed at Roxburgh, made the Priory of Rostinoth, along with the chapel of
Forfar, a cell of  Jedburgh Abbey. In the reign of Malcolm IV (1153-64) it became a subordinate property of Jedburgh Abbey in the Borders. In the year 1243 the Bishop of St Andrews consecrated the chancel of St Peter's church at the priory, which may mark the completion of the chancel. King Alexander III, in the late 13th century gave a tenth of the hay grown in his forest of Plater, near Finhaven to the priory. In an Act of Parliament of 1227 at Forfar is David 'senescallus of Rostynoth', one of a group of local dignitaries chosen to perambulate lands belonging to Arbroath Abbey.

   In the time of King Robert I the writs of Restenneth were blithely said to have been 'lost and carried off by wars and other accidental causes'.  An enquiry was held to examine the ancient rights of the foundation.  It was established that Restenneth had holdings in over twenty Angus parishes and numerous rights and privileges including the following:

uplifting on each coming of the king to Forfar, and for each day he abides there, two loaves of the lord's bread, four loaves of the second bread, and six loaves, called hugmans; two flagons of the better ale, and two pairs of messes from each of the three courses of the kitchen.

Cumelagas and Bondswomen Attached to the Priory


   Who were the canons who occupied Restenneth and how did they relate to the society around them?  No religious foundation, least of all in the Middle Ages, was distinct and separate from the area where it was situated.  The relationship between the religious house and its surroundings was deep and multi faceted.  There is a glimpse of this complexity in a document, again from the reign of King Malcolm IV.  This commands unnamed men who had lived in the priory lands to return with their chattels, forbade anyone who tried to detain them and gave authority to the priory to  have 'all cumelagas and cumherbas and all its fugitives, wherever they are, wherever discovered'.  Cumelagas probably derives from the Gaelic word  cumal, 'female slave', while cumherbas may be the Old Irish comarba, 'heir/successor' (so meaning 'hereditary servile tenant').  Scholars suggest that these indicate subtle distinctions of tied, servile classes to particular sites and institutions, and particularly in the former case a distinct female class of servants associated with very old religious institution which would - in the case of Restenneth - argue for the existence of a a pre-Augustinian church foundation here.




The Bruce Family Association


   Robert, Prior of Restenneth, swore fealty to Edward I on 28th August 1296.  The English may have caused some damage to the priory at this time, especially to its records, but I can find no evidence that it was completely destroyed as some historians insist.  

   The connection of King Robert I with Restenneth is evidenced from charters he issues from the priory.  These include two charters to the Abbey of Arbroath and one grant to the Prior of Restenneth, allowing the authority to cut wood from the Forest of Plater in Angus at all convenient seasons.  This was for the purposes of making wagons, carts, yokes, halters, plus other related wooden objects. Other sources observe that Robert I also gave the priory the teinds of the king's horses and studs, and a third of the hay of the same forest. he king, in 1317, formulated documents concerning Perth at Restenneth and, in 1322, he granted the house income from the thanage of Thanachayis (Tannadice) and appointed Alisaundre de Lamberton to inquire into the ancient rights and privileges of the priory. On 10th June 1344 King David II confirmed to Restenneth previous grants and stated his special regard for the place where his brother John was buried. This seems to be the only record of this otherwise unknown son of Bruce. Twenty merks were also granted from the customs of Dundee annually.


The Library of Iona Transferred to the Priory


   The idea that Restenneth became the repository for ancient records which had been housed in Iona seems to be found first in the  works of of Hector Boece.  The reasons given were the remoteness of Iona, though later writers have conjectured that any such removal of manuscripts and books would have been prompted by Viking incursions on the western seaboard.  If this had been the case, the evacuation of artefacts would have been accomplished at an earlier date.  The idea that the Iona library was placed for safe keeping at Restenneth may lie in the priory's relationship with the Abbey of Jedburgh.  John Jamieson reminds us of the tradition that treasures from that religious house were transported here to Angus to safeguard them from the incessant depredations of the invading English.  Could that have influenced the more slender story that the lost written records of Iona were taken and stored here? At any rate, even if not true, the Iona story hints that there was a belief, by the 16th century, is not earlier that Restenneth was a place of special significance and had associations that were believed to be ancient.

   Boece unfortunately was an arch pedlar of falsehoods.  Here's what I wrote about his involvement in an earlier post:

The historian claimed to have secured certain lost histories from the island of Iona, passed to him by the Earl of Argyll and his brother, John Campbell of Lundy. Among these fabled texts was a Latin history of Scotland composed by the Spaniard Veremund(us), archdeacon of St Andrews in the 11th century. No trace of this history exists and its author is not mentioned by John of Fordun, who might be expected to have used such a source for his own history if it had been available. Should Boece have invented this history of Veremundus it would put him in the company of Geoffrey of Monmouth who claimed as a source for his historical work a certain old book written in the ancient British tongue, which almost certainly did not exist. Weighed against the accusation is the statement of the esteemed Erasmus who stated that his friend Boece ‘knew not what it was to tell a lie’.
Linked with the claims of a false source are Boece’s strange tales about the lost library of the monks of Iona. On the prompting of Bishop Elphinstone the books from Iona, together with the history of Veremund, were brought via the Campbell sources to Aberdeen in 1525. Some of the ancient written treasures unfortunately crumbled away to nothing. Another intriguing tradition links these documents, or some other books rescued from the holy island, with the ancient priory of Restenneth in Angus. It is plausible that Restenneth was originally founded in the 8th century, though actual records of the place do not mention it until centuries later. Boece uses the locality in his work as the scene of a great battle between Picts and Scots, in which the Pictish overlord Ferideth was slain. In his preface to the history of the bishops of Aberdeen, Boece weaves the story that the Scottish king Fergus II was present as an ally or mercenary in the army of Alaric the Goth at the sack of Rome in 409 AD. While other barbarians busied themselves looting as much gold and portable artefacts that they could carry, Fergus carted away a library of ancient books which he took back with him and deposited in Iona. Centuries later, for the sake of convenience and access, King Alexander I transported this whole library to Restenneth. King Edward I of England is rumoured to have maliciously torched this priceless collection at the end of the 13th century.  
Belief in the lost or hidden literary treasures was allegedly famous far and wide, so that when the papal legate Aeneus Sylvius (who later became Pope Pius II) visited Scotland in the 15th century he aimed to journey to Iona to find the lost books of Livy which he heard were deposited in the library there. The search for these lost literary treasures was resumed by Boece and he was at least partially successful, according to himself; and though it seems unlikely, the tale may contain some element of truth.
Archway in the east side of the tower, illustrated in the work of Macgibbon and Ross.

   But Boece in another work, Murthilacensium et Aberdonensium Episcoporum Vitae, states that there was originally a munitio, a fortification, at Restenneth.  This accords well with the attested practice of kings handing over centres of power to saints, and the receiving cleric using such sites as ready made power centres, from which to spiritually control the surrounding district.  In an Angus context, an earlier Nechtan may have given his fort at Kirkbuddo to the Irish saint Buite in the late 5th century (see my blog post In Search of King Nechtan in Angus and Elsewhere).


Restenneth's Later History



   In the year 1333 Sir Alexander Lindsay (later owner of Glenesk) gave Restenneth an annuity out of the barony of Duny and the priory seemed to flourish peacefully for several centuries with little incident. But the number of canons had dwindled to only two by 1504 when King James IV attempted to have the priory suppressed and its revenues diverted to the Chapel Royal at Stirling.  Restenneth and Forfar were one parish until later in the 16th century.  In 1591 the parishioners entered into an agreement with the Forfar minister David Lindsay that he should preach at the kirk in Forfar.  Referring to Restenneth, witnesses said the people of the town had heretofore suffered great inconvenience 'in the wickit and evill dayes of wynter, and of the want and inlaik at the said kirk of easement and refreshment to mane and beast, and of the discontiguetie of mony of our dwellings theifra'.

  The priory fell into lay ownership several decades earlier, when a son of Lord Home was recorded as its commendator.  By marriage it passed to the Erskine family. Restenneth became a temporal lordship for Viscount Fenton (afterwards the Earl of Kellie) in 1606, which was confirmed by a charter of 1614.  The Fletchers of Balinscho appear to be the next owners and, in  1693, William Hunter of Burnside is recorded as the proprietor of Restenneth and used the priory as his family burial ground, as did the Dempsters of Dunnichen who acquired the property at the start of the 18th century.  When Dr Jamieson wrote in 1822 the buildings were being utilised as a cattle fold.  It was taken under control by the nation in 1919 as an ancient monument. The Angus Archives are houses in a nearby building, the Hunter Library, built in 1972.






Works Consulted


Dunbar, Lindsay J. and Maldonado, Adrián, 'A long cist cemetery near Auchterforfar Farm, Forfar, Angus – Christian or pre-Christian?', Tayside and Fife Archaeological Journal (2012), 18, pp. 63-80.

Duncan, A. A. M., Scotland, The Making of the Kingdom (Edinburgh, 1995).

Fernie, Eric, 'Early Church Architecture in Scotland', Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, 11 (1986), 393-411.

Fraser, James E. , 'Rochester, Hexham and Cennrígmonaid: The Movements of St Andrew in Britain', in Saints' Cults in the Celtic World, ed. Steve Boardman, John Reuban Davis and Eila Williamson (Woodbridge, 2009), pp. 1-17.

Fraser, James E. , The Battle of Dunnichen, 685 (Stroud, 2002).

Historic Environment Scotland, Statement of Significance:  Restenneth Priory (Edinburgh, 2004).

Jamieson, John, 'An Account of Some Ancient Remains in Angus',  Archaeologia Scotica, 2 (1822), pp. 14-30.

Jervise, Andrew, Memorials of Angus and the Mearns, An Account Historical, Antiquarian and Traditionary (2 vols., Edinburgh, 1885).

Johnston, James B., The Place-names of Scotland (Edinburgh, 1903).

Kirby, D. P., 'Bede and the Pictish Church', The Innes Review, vol 24, issue 1 (1973), pp 6-25.

Macgibbon, David and Ross, Thomas, The Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, From the Earliest Christian Times to the Seventeenth Century, volume I (3 vols., Edinburgh, 1896).

Macpherson, Rev. J. G., Strathmore, Past and Present (Perth, 1885).

Reid, Alan, The Royal Burgh of Forfar (Paisley, 1902).

Sherriff, John R., 'Prehistoric Rock-carvings in Angus,' Tayside and Fife Archaeological Journal, 1 (1995), 11-22.

Simpson, W. Douglas, 'The Early Romanesque Tower at Restenneth Priory, Angus,' The Antiquaries Journal,  42 (02) (1963), pp.  269-83.

Stuart, John, 'On the Early History of the Priory of Restennet,' Archaeologia Scotica, 7 (1866-68), 285-316.

Taylor, Simon, 'Place-names and the early church in Scotland,' Records of the Scottish Church History Society, 28 (1998), pp. 1-22.

Warden, Alexander, Angus, or Forfarshire, 2nd volume (4 vols, Dundee, 1880-1885).

Watson, W.J., History of the Celtic Place-names of Scotland (1926, rep. Edinburgh, 1986).


Appendix


Rental of lands belonging to the Priory of Restenneth, from a copy in Miscellanea Aldbarensia, printed in Memorials of Angus and the Mearns, vol. 2, app. 32.